Objectives:

To continue exploration and re-survey where the last expedition left off. The expedition would concentrate on pushing the Chichi/Resistol arms of the Cuetzalan system before moving east towards the Sima Grande area where we knew little previous work had been done.

The UK Team:  Mick Numwick, Nick Jones, Pete Caleb, John Thorp (Lugger), Wendy Thorp, Tim Allen, Cliff Burnet (Geordie), Jonathon Sims, Dave Miller, Andy Goodall, Andrea Goudy, Tony Wright & Dick Ballytyne.

The Mexican Team:  Ramon Espinasa, Ruthy Espinasa, Tatchy, Pablo & Jan.

The expedition and selected log book entries:

Thirteen British cavers from the Northern Cave Club and Army Caving Association spent mostly a month in the area. We were joined by five members of the SMES for as much time as they could manage. In Resistol exploration continued and surprisingly the connection to Chichi was made from this cave. How it had been missed from Chichi last year is a mystery.

22^nd March 1993
"Tim, Mick & Nick. Started surveying at Bob’s Folly in order to link up the gap that Ramon had previously surveyed. In the canyon a climb up gave access to the possible bypass. Tim linked it back to the inlet and a large chamber while Mick found a way that just needs a short rope for a traverse line. We were then on our way to the fine chamber at station 43. The passage here achieves huge proportions. On one corner there is a most impressive column supporting the whole roof. Progress then became slow as the way was found up and over blocks as large as houses. A short section in the stream was some relief before more breakdown again. At another corner a long sandy climb gains a large peaceful chamber where we took a rest. The way on now lay along a fine sandy ledge above the breakdown on the lefthand side before dropping down through boulders to the stream. After what looked like a sump (station 120), a climb up onto a ledge leads through blocks into a very large rift. Here the stream tumbles away down a 20m cascade. The way on though was up to the left in a massive passage. From a high point Mick looked across to see a hole in the side of the passage at the same height. Tim went across and yes there was a rope down from it. Cheers and smiles to say the least, we had found the connection to Chichi. Tim suggested Mick should hand over hand it up the 12m rope so that we could ladder it and make our way out of Chichi. Sounded great but could mean an awfully long return trip if we failed to free climb or frig the pitches. Mick turned down the offer to climb the rope so Tim made an improvised prussiking system with lengths of tape. We watched his steady progress up the rope as bits of rock and earth rained down around us. When he reached the top I think he was a little shocked to say the least to see the state of the belays. Ladders were fixed and Nick and Mick now joined Tim at the top. The connection passage was easy walking and soon saw us in the Bocshsteigl Chamber. Even the vastness of this place none of us had visited did not give any route finding problems, and we were soon in the Chichi streamway. On past the 30m pitch and into the Brown passage which although boulder strewn did not give any problems until its end. A calcite wall needed scaling and Tim invited Mick to make the ascent. A couple of tricky moves and Mick was up the 8m climb. A ladder saw the others up and on to our last obstacle, the 1^st pitch. This was also free climbed and we made haste to the new entrance. A final flog up through maize fields and a dash to the hotel and the welcome beer and food provided by an excited and drunken team."

And the end of Resistol….

24^th March 1993
"Mick, Nick & Tim…..Down to the underground camp and beyond to met Lugger and the team surveying. A couple of swims led back into easy going with the stream. A 100m more and the passage split. We took the stream branch, soon arriving at the end choke. We entered this at stream level and started laying out fishing line to guide our return route. The way was never easy squeezing up and over between blocks. As the line nearly ran out all possible ways on choked up. New passage would not be ours. Returning we joined the survey team in the other branch. There was no better tale here, the choke was too loose and dangerous…."

The Belgium Choke was busted and the way on left wide open beyond a second choke at the head of a very wet pitch, but as the second of these two accounts shows, trips to this end of the cave were becoming a lot less fun.

3^rd April 1993.
"Tim, Mick & Geordie. Flew down Chichi at mega warp speed. Changed into wetsuits at the swim after Brown passage, then traversed the swim and sweated bollocks off all the way to the choke. Mick led us into the choke and we easily found the last survey station just beyond the cascade. Geordie and mick ferreted about whilst I laid line. Geordie popped through an awkward squeeze and into a watery area among the boulders. After some more ferreting about he popped out into an enlargement. We all followed. A swim through the enlargement led back into boulders. Mick headed up a slot between boulders and dumped his tackle bag in a ‘space’ while he went for a look. He found the way on and we followed by various routes, but couldn’t find his bag. In fact we didn’t know which bag he had left or who had it last and certainly not where he had left it. It was all very confusing – you had to be there! After a lot of huffing and puffing it was found. This little known place is now called ‘Bag On Chamber’. Shortly afterwards we emerged from the boulders in a 25x10m passage, now with a much larger stream. Resistol water no doubt. Stomped on down to a sump after 300m. The sump was by-passed by following several phreatic oxbows only to find another boulder choke with a thundering noise coming from beyond. We scouted the choke finding no way through then headed back checking all the phreas again for a bypass. None. Back to the choke for a bigger effort. Mick then found a complicated route through to be stopped by a pitch. Surveyed out, many short legs in the choke, totalling 480m. Nine hour trip."

The following day a thunder storm hit the area and although no one was in Chichi it did trap two cavers in San Andres, who were lucky to escape with there lives. The next trip into the Belgium Boulder Choke had a different mood.

9^th April 1993
"Mick, Nick, Geordie & Tatchy. The aim was to crack the Belgium Boulder Choke. We set off at 3pm yesterday after a rainy period, nothing too heavy. I, at this point was not at all disturbed, however later it was to change. I think Mick and Nick were a little anxious upon entering the trip. Once inside the cave the tension in the air was acute. Mick flew off, closely followed by Tatchy. We changed into wet suits on the junction between the streamway and the connection. Upon going down to where the brew kit had been left, I expected it to have disappeared, my assumption was right, Mick spotted the mess tin under a boulder. Going down the streamway from here the tension was building, the flood debris was very high, the walls unclimbable. Should a flood pulse hit here there was no where to shelter! Nick felt better than when we set out, his nerves way laid for the moment or so it seemed. The choke took a long time, following the fishing line which had debris strewn along it. When we eventually got to our last survey station Mick led, Tatchy laid line as we surveyed on. The water obviously backs right back into the chamber and phreatic passages as all signs of our footsteps were gone. Mick rigged the pitch and ferreted for a way on. This led to a 10m drop. Mick being a climber saw his way down, shouting back ‘be careful on this one it’s a bit dodgy’! This I thought would have been another pitch, however we all climbed with caution. Here the water came down with such force like a jet from a fire engine. The river, as it was now, could be seen to disappear after 15-20m. Mick traversed in the fast flowing water and came to a pitch head. He saw a possible hang but came back. He pointed out that the water was very fast flowing and the chances of getting on and off ladders was slim. This pitch and the following one are definately SRT pitches. We had two options, to go for it or head out and derig. We weighed up the options and decided to make a hasty retreat, getting out of the cave at midnight, relieved, tired and totally fucked! Back, trying to calm down and many beers later off to bed, but not much sleep. In the morning I found out that Mick and Nick hadn’t slept much either. The next assault will certainly know what to expect, take your SRT kit and plenty of rope because it’s gooooooing!"

Atischalla Norte and Atischalla Sud also proved problematic to connect into the main system. In Norte the problem was another complex boulder choke, in Sud it was a tight bedding.

9^th April 1993
"Tim, Dick & Andy. Atischalla Norte. The aim was to find a route through the terminal choke and connect it with Resistol. Into the choke laying line through the two difficult sections either side of the small rift passage. At the end we first inspected the route at the high point. No good. We then moved down to the larger area to the left and located a strongly draughting rift which led to a choke. Squeezing past a double restriction into a low bouldery area found several ways on. Whilst investigating one of these I heard Lugger and Dave whistling from Resistol but before I could find the right way the whistling stopped…."

10^th April 1993
"Tim, Tony & Andy. Resistol end. Found the choke only 50m upstream from the entrance pitch. The choke presents only a fraction of its size at this end so there are fewer places to look. Looked at a squeeze one metre from the floor at first but it was very tight and decided that the way on was elsewhere. We checked all other possibilities but the only route left was the squeeze. With kit off I went through to find the character of the choke very similar to yesterday with clean washed blocks and a gravelly floor. After further squirming around between blocks I came upon a fresh muddy smear. It must have been me yesterday. Further investigation revealed the two carbide arrows I had left to point my way out. Busted. The direct line measurement between the two stations must be only 20m."

12^th April 1993
"Lugger & Pete, Ruthy & Tatchy. The aim was to survey up the inlet from Atischalla Norte while Ruthy and Tatchy surveyed the tight section downstream from Sud. Passage very muddy to start but soon changed to clean washed streamway, varied going in a generally small passage saw us progress quite rapidly. We were just starting to get apprehensive about the weather when we heard strange noises. To our joy these turned out to be Ruthy and Tatchy coming downstream with Ruthy complaining about the worst squeeze she had done in her life. We soon had the survey tied in and team spirits were high knowing that the Cuetzalan re survey was complete apart from the going lead in the Belgium Choke."

With the Atischallas connected into the Cuetzalan System Survey the length had reached over 21km and 464m depth.

The San Andres System was stumbled upon via a 55m shaft known locally as Sima Ixtahuata, but by us as Alum Pot.

25^th March 1993
"Tim, Mick & Nick. San Andres/Tenango. Went to Tenango to drop the last of the three shafts found by Bob, Lugger & Mick last year. This proved to be 20m deep to a rift passage choked with mud. We then went to check another cave found last year. Tim and Mick entered this down two small climbs to a rift passage. This quickly reached a pitch, and dropping a rock a bat flew out into Mick’s face making him jump. Back outside we continued the walk towards San Andres. When about a kilometre below the town we found an Alum Pot type entrance rift with a large stream at the bottom. Heading on up the hill we passed Pilostoc entrance before arriving back in Cuetzalan."

26^th March 1993
"…..Mick descended and had a quick look at the fine streamway. Downstream was followed for 30m to a swim. Upstream for 3-400m of very easy going past pools and cascades with a very strong draught. Both directions look set to provide some very good caving."

Several entrances were found upstream and linked together

27^th March 1993
"Mick & Nick went on walk to find other San Andres caves. Approached from Chichi area over hill to find a valley with a stream heading to San Andres. Stream sinks in breakdown but crawl over blocks seen to enter large bedding. Five other entrances found between here and Alum Pot."

2^nd April 1993
"Nick, Pete & Dave. Entered Maize Field Cave. Surveyed downstream through choke for 200m and made connection with chamber in upstream section of Alum Pot."

2^nd April 1993
"Lugger, Mick, Wendy & Andrea. All went to top sink. Wendy and Andrea surface surveyed to church. Lugger and Mick started a survey of the cave, where main line led to large boulder choke. Kept low, low enough to find a short duck, and eventually popped out in the upstream choke of Maize Field Cave. Today’s connections bring the San Andres system to 4.5km in length."

One final entrance was located which proved to be the most efficient route to explore the system downstream.

2^nd April 1993
"Tim. Feeling guilty about not getting my act together to go caving with Mick and Lugger I went for a walk down the valley to the west of Alum Pot. Cutting off from the main track, down a maize field on a smaller track, I arrived at the bottom to find a resurgence with a dam and several pipes at the entrance. The stream then cuts through a small canyon and on down the continuing valley to sink under a 10m high cliff. I didn’t get a very good look at the entrance as just as I was turning my head torch on for a look I was surrounded by very aggressive black killer bees. This freaked me right out and I legged it as far away as possible getting stung only once. Unfortunately I had dropped my head torch and had to return to the scene. Whilst doing this I noticed a much easier way down which avoided their nest."

Downstream another huge choke was found. Nearby an inlet climb led to over a kilometre of new passage. Fortunately a rope was left hanging on the climb, a significant act as a few days later the expedition experienced its first taste of flash flooding. Most of the team were having a day off but two new arrivals went for a look down San Andres entering a 4pm.

4^th April 1993
"Dick & Tony. After an abortive look into the boulder choke I noticed a weird increase in noise at about 6.10pm (thunderstorm began at 6.00pm). Tony noticed a tin lid in the streamway previously uncovered was now covered in water. We set of upstream with noise increasing and stream looking murky. We quickly charged our lamps from the dump and carried on. Water was showering in from the roof all over. We came through the swim no problem. We got to our SRT kits on a ledge and started putting them on, by this time there was a horrendous thundering from the pitch around the corner. Tony got his SRT kit on first because I had a problem with my delta. Whilst I struggled with my delta Tony started shouting, I came round the corner into a maelstorm of water, the water was a foot off the far wall. Tony was on the rope and had pulled the rope in. After a nightmare struggle getting Tony off the rope (really totally indescribable), before I came round the corner he had been hit by the pulse. We went downstream to look for somewhere dry, the stream was rising and the current was horrendous. The swim was sumped, I noticed an inlet on the left which we tried as it was our only option. It was an easy 6m climb and it seemed to go, we carried on up, saw a rope and were straight up it and settled down for a long wait. About 9pm I went down the rope and the 6m climb was completely under water. Checked again at 10.15 and the water had cleared from the climb, but the pitch was still horrendous so we went back to settle down for the night. Later we heard voices."

"And we heard voices too and what a relief that was I can tell you. Tim and Mick entered the cave at 10pm and decided to try and get down although the water was still high. Rigged several ropes on the cascades and headed cautiously downstream with water pissing in everywhere. The inlets were particularly spectacular. Rigged ladders from oxbow to get to the pitch head proper. Met Tony and Dick and headed out with water levels falling all the time."

The choke proved to be another long one but eventually gave way to persistent probing. More streamway with pitches, chambers and chokes followed. In all over 8km were surveyed. The last trip left the route wide open as follows.

14^th April 1993
"Ramon, Tatchy, Mick & Lugger. Aim of the trip was to push on from the ladder pitch left by the previous team. Drove down to Killer Bee entrance in Ramon’s car. At the far end of the cave Mick rigged ladder pitch while the rest started to survey. The pitch led to the top of a cascade and a second ladder was attached. Within 20m a large and serious boulder choke was encountered in which Mick proceeded to get quite lost. Returning 50m back up the passage a high level route was found to lead over the choke. The passage, on the true righthand side, started as a bedding a little over a metre high but soon broke into a very large breakdown passage. Survey was taken down large boulder slope to fault plane where large sandy passage led to the right, main passage was down through boulders at a very steep angle. This was followed for 30m to ever increasing sound of the stream. A short drop stopped exploration here."

Sima Chapultepec was discovered just outside Cuetzalen town. The entrance, located in the side of a choked shakehole, led to a series of four tight pitches before gradually opening up. After 2.5km this entered a much larger rubbish strewn passage which was immediately recognised as Zoquiapan. Although no one had been down this cave it was one of the few well documented caves from the old explorations.

6^th April 1993
"Pablo, Mick & Geordie. Trip to look at the large doline below Cuetzalan on the way to Alum Pot. We cut a trail down to a rocky gully. Two rebelays and the 40m rope was too short. Rerigging to a lower bush we arrived at the bottom to find the way on blocked. On the way back up Geordie left the rope to enter a rift. Here he found a parallel pitch. The rope was too short so we returned for more tackle. Re-equiped we descended the new 35m pitch. The way on was down a tight muddy rift to a 10m pitch and then to the head of another where we had once again run out of tackle. A tight squeeze will make this awkward to descend but the draught is very strong and a passage can be seen continuing."

7^th April 1993
"Geordie, Mick, Tony & Pablo. The squeeze was not too bad and after a low crawl the passage got bigger. A junction was met and the passage got bigger again. Lots of crawls in bedding were interspersed with nice walking cascading passage. A large inlet joins before a wet 3m pitch and here we stopped surveying. A quick look beyond shows a big improvement in the caving."

10^th April 1993
"Geordie, Mick, Nick & Dick. Surveyed on downstream to where the passage picks up a large inlet from the right. From here the passage is strewn with rubbish from the suspected Zoquiapan. Surveyed up to the bottom of the shaft."

Cueva Tasalopan, in the upper limestone high above the San Miguel sink, was pushed to a conclusion. Also in the upper limestone Cueva de la Providentia was found. This horizontal cave is often visited by Mexican tourists. A number of other smaller caves were found including Cueva Grotbag and Bat in the Face cave none of which were very pleasant. The resurgence below the village of Tonalix was revisited. In the drier weather no sign of the resurging water seen last year could be found and the river bed remained dry for several kilometres downstream. On the last day of the trip Cueva de Alpazat was shown to us. Located down in the Toxan valley it appeared to be the flood overflow for much of the area. Beautifully decorated it was explored for only a kilometre although the size of the draught indicated much more to come.

17^th April 1993
"Ramon, Ruthy, Tatchy & Nick. After lengthy negotiation with Gabriel Diaz of Gaby’s Café fame, we set off to this highly sensitive area in the Toxan Valley. We were given a guide, who took us to the guide, who was going to guide us to the cave. The entrance is a high rift at the base of a cliff. A succession of deep pools led to a widening of the cave with lakes and fine formations. At a 2m climb down the conglomerate was encountered and the character changed markedly. Much more mud in evidence suggesting that during a flood water backs up at the climb. The main passage was followed to a high narrow cross rift which was sumped. A passage on the right led to a complex series in which there are several major leads, draughting strongly. About one kilometre was covered but not surveyed because Ramon forgot the tape. On exiting the cave, our guide was waiting at the entrance, showed us some other caves, and then guided us to the other guides who guided us back to the road."

After the Brits had left the Mexicans surveyed nearly 2km leaving the way on wide open at a major stream junction. Over 24km was surveyed on the trip.

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