Objectives:

To connect the Cuetzalan System with San Miguel and continue pushing downstream in both San Andres and Chichi. At the same time to push upstream in Alpazat. As time allowed to continue exploring caves to the east of the main system.

The expedition and selected log book entries:

A few months after the army expedition another NCC expedition visited the area over easter ‘94. This was the largest yet with 17 Brits and 6 Mexicans. The Cuetzalan system was connected to San Miguel via the open pitch left from the Christmas expedition. This increased the length to over 34km and the depth to 658m.

27^th March 1994.
"Chas & Tachi. Continued down Essex Girls extension to the head of the pitch. 15m drop down to reasonable sized passage. Followed this for 20m to 3m climb. Below three passages diverge. Each followed for 25m to big void and sound of running stream – got very excited. Surveyed passages from 15m pitch to head of two of the pitches. Shortest of these was measured at 12m, so we ran back, cut the remaining rope and grabbed SRT stuff and rigged pitch down into San Miguel. Dropped into large breakdown chamber and clambered down boulders following the right hand wall to drop into very large stream passage. With high spirits we trotted off upstream. Passed monster breakdown area to more fine streamway with swims and short climbs. Turned back at the bottom of 3m cascade into deep pool. After a fettle decided to survey and derigg at a later date and plodded out to the surface 11.5 hours."

Elsewhere in the cave, particularly around the entrance series, only minor extensions were made. Several attempts to push downstream of the Belgium choke all ended in failure mainly due to flooding paranoia.

28^th March 1994.
"Dick, JJ, Tim & Pete. We set off with the equipment to rig the rest of the cave beyond the Belgium choke and attempt to reach at least where the Belgiums had got to. The entrance series was uneventful. When we reached the flowstone pitch down to the Allet/Brown passage JJ turned back due to ‘Cuetzalan’ fever. Pete regretted having a big tackle sack as all the equipment was transferred to his. Continued on to the Belgium choke made our way through the simpler first section and then lined to the end. At the next choke we made the climb up very gingerly and found the fishing line which meant we had climbed up in a new place. Tim rigged the ladder after the big slab and we climbed down into the canyon. Tim rigged a line along the canyon to a couple of boulders before the next pitch in view of the Belgium bolt and the boulder in the roof of the passage. He put a bolt in just before the pitch and using that and the Belgium bolt eased himself onto the boulder where the rope was tied off to a sound thread. From the thread he rigged the ladder down the other side of the boulder in an attempt to avoid the thundering torrent. The ladder landed clear of the waterfall but within a few metres is another cascade. The violence of the water means it needs rigging out on the right hand wall with a harness to lean out on. We didn’t have one so after a futile attempt without we headed back to the relative safety of the pitch to sort gear out. We were somewhat reluctant to leave this spot as it appears safe from flooding!! Eventually moved out lining the rest of the choke on the way."

19^th April 1994.
"Tim, Pete & Mike. ……and downstream Chichi – what a bastard! Three trips and only ten metres of progress. At this rate it will take fifty years to connect it with San Andres!"

The San Andres system was pushed downstream for several kilometres to within a short distance of the fast expanding Alpazat. Unfortunately this ended in a choke just downstream from the entry of a major inlet.

28,29,30^th March 1994.
"Mick, Richard, Wardy, Big Nose, Ramon & Ruthy. Set off heavily loaded for the underground camp supported by team carrying spare carbide and fuel. The descent was hot and awkward with the tackle and once again section of the line had to be replaced through the choke. After establishing the camp Richard, Big Nose and Wardy set off downstream. Mick went to the leads at the end of the dry passages. A 7m pitch was descended into a rift. This lead into a phreatic maze with no draught and all ways ending in mud chokes. Back up the pitch Ramon and Ruthy joined Mick to check out more holes in the floor. A new passage lead to a 4m pitch back to the stream bypassing the first swims. Mick went downstream to catch the others up in a fine straight canyon passage a metres wide and up to 20m high. On catching up with the survey team Mick took the opportunity to go in front. Many small cascades and plunge pools eventually lead to a very fine 6m pitch. With no tackle a return was made to the others who continued the survey up to the pitch. Back in camp a reasonably comfy night was had dining on a fine stew prepared by Wardy earlier. During the night Mick thought he heard an increase in the noise of the stream. Next day, Mick, Ramon and Ruthy set off to rig the pitch. A bolt was placed to try and get a dry hang but the water level had increased. A swim from the foot of the ladder lead to more fine streamway with pools, cascades and climbs. A long walking section lead to a sumpy area with a 100m or more of swims. After 2km the easy going came to an inevitable end. A large breakdown passage gave a few problems getting started. A greasy climb up, now rigged with a ladder, got us up into the big passage. Progress was hindered by much treacherous mud. A site for camp2 was found high on a corner with access to the stream. As we approached the sound of much water a mud slope was rigged with ladders to the confluence with a very large inlet. Could this be Chichi Zoquiapan or both. The volume of water was 5-6 times that of San Andres. We continued downstream a little way over more breakdown and stopped at a point in the stream where a boulder slope up leads to blackness. Finally we explored the inlet for 70m via some large plunge pools against a strong flow to a 5m pitch that bars the way on. All the water comes through a metre diameter round hole in its face. We returned to camp for more stew and made a fast exit the next day to get back to the beer."

As the end was being investigated the five man camping team was hit by a flash flood cutting off their escape

5-7^th April 1994.
"Steve, Chas, Pete, Ben & Luis. Caving from camp 2 on day two the cave didn’t go. Big choke. No way through. Went to look at big inlet. Very pretty, very spectacular, tons of water. Little did we know.
Back to camp. I went to get some water. Found a new passage, a flood overflow. At the end – a big stream. The fact that it was thundering, brown and evil smelling didn’t ring any alarm bells.
Back at camp, alarm bells definitely going off as the sound of the streams gets louder and louder. Pete went to get water aqnd the San Andres stream is 20ft higher. Shit. We all sit around listening to the ever increasing roar while Pete goes off every now and then to report the stream level.
To give ourselves something to do we go and survey the new passage. The stream at the end is positively collosal and 8ft higher.
‘Pete, what if we’d been in that inlet passage 10 minutes later?…’.
‘Don’t even think about it.’ ‘I wonder what it would have looked like…’. Visions of cavers swept away by 30ft high wall of brown flood pulse and forced through the terminal choke like meat through a mincer.
Back at camp Pete reports stream levels falling. We cook a meal and get struck into the barcardi.
Suddenly it all goes quiet. Stream really must have gone down. But no – SHIT – we are surrounded by a lake as the water rises up from the choke. Camp is dismantled in a two minute frenzy and we climb up something I would normally regard as impossible. Four of us perched on a muddy boulder 20ft above camp and 20ft below the ROOF while Pete relays the water levels – coming up at a foot every five minutes. We all do the same calculation, an hour before we’re treading water and another hour before we hit the roof.
The only re-assuring thought is that the San Andres water had started to fall before the big inlet started backing up. The only question was – how long would the pulse last?
Nobody said very much. I kept passing out and jerking myself awake. Mud disturbed from our perch fell a short distance into the water with an ominous ‘plop’.
The most frightening time was when the flood over-flow started to run. Everything seemed to be filling up…
At about 7.30 Pete reported the rising was slowing down…. ‘we might live’… and at 8pm it stopped – six inches below our camp. We reheated our food and bedded down to gurgling noises all around and great relief.
‘Suppose the choke had gone, Pete?’
‘I don’t even want to ever think about it…’
We got up at 4.30 and started out at six. Water levels were high but just passable. It took us three and a half hours to get to camp 1, the first place that seemed to have not been submerged. The lower part of the choke was still sumped, and all of the choke but the very top was dripping wet. All the streamway climbs were tricky and the ladder in the new streamway, which we reckoned to be the crux of the trip out, was pretty desperate.
Got out, knackered, at 2pm and found my rucksack had been pinched. Who cares, it’s a fine day to be alive."

Cueva Alpazat was rapidely extended mainly by the Mexican contingent prior to the expedition. Two major leads were left heading up into the hill. A semi-active passage pointed south-east towards San Andres, whilst the main streamway snaked its way south-west towards San Miguel.

1^st April 1994.
"Nick, JJ, Luis & Jesus. With Ramon and co we established a camp inside Alpazat and all set off along the streamway to Never Ending Story. Ramon showed us to our lead from where we were to start surveying. The passages that we followed did not lead to San Andres but we left one lead at the top of a pitch which should be followed up. 800m surveyed.
Next day the boulder choke lead in the main streamway was easily passed and led to a waterfall chamber. A climb past it on the left led to 500m of great stream passage to a small choke. 100m beyond brought us to a junction where a much larger passage continued straight on. This was followed to large breakdown and choke. 822m surveyed."

Soon after the flood that had trapped five in San Andres another team visited Alpazat. It was soon realised that this cave flooded too. A section near the entrance sumped – and took six days to break!

7^th April 1994.
"Tim, Nick, Martin, Dick, Mike, Ramon & Ruthy. Advertised widely as two short swims to big open leads and very pretty entrance with crystal clear water just happened to be muddy brown. The two short swims had been reduced to one, lasting most of the cave in dirty brown water. After about 30 minutes caving we arrived at what I assumed was the second swim. Someone mentioned a 7m climb down but I couldn’t see it. After consultation among the Alpazat cartel – those previously allowed into the cave – a statement was made. ‘Aaaah I’m surprised at this’. The location of the 7m climb was pointed out – under the brown foamy water."

9^th April 1994.
"Nick, Tim, Ruthy, Angus, Martin & Mike. Pool at the entrance to Alpazat was still muddy after the recent flood. At the climb down which was flooded a few days ago the water had dropped 10m but at the foot of the climb was still deep water where there shouldn’t be. Ruthy and I swam through the normally dry walking passage to a low airspace duck with no airflow at all suggesting that it was sumped further on."

12^th April 1994.
"Tim, Nick & Martin. Whole team headed in together getting slightly lost in the area that the sump had been only a few days before. Up at the camp all was dry. Up the first section of streamway we were all suitably impressed and thought that the water could be enough to be the drainage of the whole system. At the boulder junction we split up and we continued up to the boulder choke found previously by Nick and JJ. Continued up the slope and found some wonderful white formations and six foot long straws. Beyond the boulders hit the roof. Found a way down to the stream but didn’t push it any further. Retreated to the main inlet and Tim ran up this for 200m. Paranoia levels fairly high and no one fancied pushing. Surveyed an oxbow for 100m just to get something safe on paper. Not the most productive of trips."

13^th April 1994.
Tim, Pete & Wardy. Zoomed back up to the end choke. Wardy soon found the way on into a short section of streamway but this also choked. No way on could be found despite an extensive search. We surveyed 280m back to the last station. We then saw lights at the top of the slope and soon the B team arrived having connected a loop via Never Ending Story and Ramons passage. We then surveyed up the main (Horror) inlet for half a km although paranoia levels ensured that it was done pretty fast. It was actually very pleasant passage, sporting at first in the usual large rift and then in a wider slabby passsage. We left it wide open but had things been ‘normal’ we would have found kilometres."

Above Sima Talcomitl several interesting features were found. A 30m shaft descended to a streamway which was followed for several kilometres both upstream (which became too narrow) and downstream to a connection with the Sima.

10^th April 1994.
"Tim, Martin, Pete & TigerCub. Wide open leads in all directions, without serious flood potential. Too good to miss. Following previous trip headed immediately for the downstream end and rigged the cascade on ladder. The big passage below had no survey mark and an upstream continuation so not Sima Talcomitl – yet. Mad scramble downstream through boulders in large old passage as everyone tries to find the way on. After a while of this the boulders ended in a section of fine streamway where Tim and Martin waited – note! After about 20m of walking streamway, boulder hopping started again and eventually led to another fine cascade pitch. This time the bottom of the pitch was marked with a station, Talcomitl. Continued over more boulders to daylight and climb up slope to the impressive entrance of the Sima. Tim inspected the downstream lead, down a small free climbable rift to a slab bl;ocking an immature passage. This stream is too small to be the main stream from upper Talcomitl. The main stream goes into boulders at the base of the entrance slope. Pete elected to go and look at this while we started the survey. His report was of loose boulders, still going, but bad news alone. Survey team started with Tiger on the tape leading us into a side passage. This allowed Pete, derigging to overtake, more later. Surveyed back to first cascade including two large upstreams. One choked, the other longer one was surveyed to where the stream split. Tiger checked the upstream leads. Left got low and wet. Right went ‘on and on into bigger passage’. Tiger vowed to return the next day but then had a change of heart and went off with team tourism to see some pyramids. Survey team discovered Pete blundering around near the entrance with no light and no idea where he was. Exited and made a dash for the torta stand and totty bar. 714m surveyed."

The choke at the end of Zoquiapan was checked out and this amusing log book entry just about sums up the state of the cave.

5^th April 1994.
"Wardy, Big Nose, Dick, Tachi, Mario & Jesus. The young Mexican tigers roared off in advance of the dazed Hautla veterans not realising that dazed meant ‘unlikely to follow’.
A culmination of stupidity, lack of willpower and general lunacy resulted in the three vets being stood at the top of the shaft. Life wasn’t that bad we all thought, just a quick trip into glory and back to the bar.
Having descended the shaft and commented on its beauty we realised it was like a freshly bleached toilet bowl, as in – the bit you see is clean but behind the bowl shit lurks and lurks and lurks. So the three wandered on past the U bend and on towards the first settling tank. Only as we waded through and aerated it did we fully realise its content – it wasn’t good and there wasn’t a toilet duck in sight.
Due to the usual ‘Hecho in Mexico’ construction we were three quarters of the way down before Big Nose found the toilet seat, complete with lid, wedged between boulders and not fitted to the top of the bowl as is normal.
The final choke or main effluent filter to give it its proper name was in a poor state of repair and definitely in need of cleaning as the term ‘full of shite’ was generally considered a tad of an understatement….."

In Cueva Tasalopan a few small extensions were made. At the same geological level further up the valley Cueva Coyoxochit was explored.

30^th March 1994.
"Tim, Dick & Greg. Walked over to San Miguel and on down to the lower part of the valley. Had a long conversation with an old man who told us there were no caves other than the sink and Tasalopan at that end of the valley but there were two caves much higher up. After a spot of bribery the old man agreed to show us to them, which was fortunate as we would never have found them ourselves. Our guide hacked his way through thick bush up to the base of the cliff line. The first cave went for about 100m to another entrance with a side lead continuing. We continued along the cliff line passing several small entrances to a much larger one. We surveyed about 400m with passage still going and side leads unsurveyed. Walked back up valley finding our way to the road without problem. This route is much better than going via San Miguel. Both caves are called Coyoxochit and are certainly what the Americans called Grutas de Atepolihuit. GR524132."

Several walks were made to the potential resurgence areas to the north and north east with little success and the location of the dry weather resurgence remains a big mystery.

1^st – 3^rd April 1994.
"Tim, Angus & Richard. Set off with the team to Alpazat and established camp in the dry cave 50m away. Watched the team set off in and then headed further down the Tozan valley. By following small tracks at the level of the limestone/conglomerate contact we arrived at the river after about a kilometre. Just in front was a 30 foot waterfall and a little beyond a large stone bridge. An entrance was seen on the opposite bank near the waterfall but required a swim to get to. Just downstream from the bridge a stream cascded down to join the main river. Unfortunately it issued from a small bedding. A dry valley continued up the hill behind it and we followed this up for some way without finding anything. Continued further down the main valley but everyone we asked said there were only the caves at Alpazat. That night Rich had the paranoia’s with the vampire bat and a large white rat-like creature that ran right past him.
Next day we walked down the road to Xaltipan where we were shown two small caves in the north side of the gorge, one either side of the road. Followed the very pleasant gorge up to a junction and several kilometres further up the righthand fork and back to Ayotzinapan. Nowhere up the gorge was any water flowing so the presumed resurgence below Toxin must have only been a flood overflow.
Rich couldn’t stand another night of beasties so he headed back. Me and Angus surveyed the bivi cave in the morning and returned to Cuetzalan with the Alpazat team when they came out at 11.30."

Other minor caves were explored including Cueva Tarantula, Cueva Dragfold and Sima Tres Simas. A total of 11kms were surveyed on the expedition.

During the expedition we received a call to assist with the recovery of Ian Rollands body. He had died whilst diving at the bottom of Sotano de San Augustin near Huatla. He was known to several of the expedition members.

31^st March – 4^th April 1994.
"Dick, Mick, Pete, Wardy, Big Nose. After hearing of the death of Ian Rolland, we received a call from Rob Palmer in Huatla requesting assistance. The above team set of at a bit of a rush on Thursday afternoon, arriving after four buses and a truck at San Augustin in the early hours. The next day we got the available details ie. Ian’s rebreather equipment which he was using 500m into the terminal sump was functioning OK. The spectulation amongst the diving team was that Ian’s diabetes may have been a contributing factor.
Between Sunday when he died and Thursday the body had been moved from –890m to about –200m. on Friday our team went in with an American group, who had arrived from the Cheve area to help, and quickly moved the body to the foot of the entrance gully. The evacuation could have been completed that day but the Mexican authorities insisted that the coroner should be present to witness the removal of the body from the cave (he couldn’t make it on Good Friday!). the rest of Friday was spent indulging in some serious tension relieving in the local bar and later in the well stocked expedition kitchen.
On Saturday our team went in and completed the evacuation up the entrance gully and pitch with the stretcher arriving at the top just as the coroner arrived. The followed a bit of over the top behaviour by a couple of Yanks (newly arrived from the states that day) prancing around taking photos which, considering the circumstances, made us just a bit annoyed.
The local villagers held a very dignified procession and church service in honour of Ian, after which his body was dispatched to Oaxaca for post Mortem.
The Americans, photo takers apart, were very hospitable to us. The plan to carry on with the diving/filming project despite Ian’s death. Good luck to them. Sunday saw the five of us set off on a tourist trip to the sump tremendous sporting trip. Monday was a nightmare bus journey back to Cuetzalan."

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